Alice in Asia: The 1905 Taft Mission to Asia, Return Trip

Yokohama: The 100 Steps at Motomachi

Return Trip

Japanese boat from Pusan to Shimonoseki

October 5: Canadian Mail Steamer to Yokohama

“We took a Japanese boat from Fusan to Shimonoseki where we boarded a Canadian Mail steamer to go through the inland sea and around to Yokohama. We stayed again with the Griscomes in Tokio, and this time saw much more of Japan than on our former visit. We went to Kamakura to see the great Buddha; to Chiuzenji, and to Nikko to see the temples and mausolea of the Shoguns, where in shoeless feet, we were taken in to the innermost sacred shrines. We walked on the beach at Enoshima, where the young man went into the sea for what he thought was a day, but when he came out he was old and crumbled away in a puff of dust. We took our time, and I began to get the feeling that I wanted to get, of the Japan that I had known through the story of the Forty-seven Loyal Ronins and the Japanese fairy tales and pictures in small crinkly books, that I had had when a child.”

“Since we had left Japan in July, the Treaty of Portsmouth had been signed, and Americans were about as unpopular as they had been popular before. I have never seen a more complete change. There was a story that bombs had been thrown at the Harriman party and we were told that if anyone asked, it would be advisable to say that we were English. The anti-American feeling, however, seemed to be confined to the populace. The officials were just as courteous and friendly as before, and when Mr. Harriman, who had been looking over the railroad situation in eastern Manchuria, arrived in Tokio with his family and guests, many entertainments were given for them. At one large garden party, the last of the Shoguns was produced; a very old gentleman in unbecoming occidental clothes, not at all what a Shogun should have looked like.”

October 5: Canadian Mail Steamer to Yokohama

  • 11:22 Leaving for Yokohama (横浜発)
  • 12:08 Ship arrival (大船着)
  • 12:20 Disembark (大船発)
  • 12:30 Arrival in Kamakura. Overnight at US embassy villa (鎌倉着 米国公使館別荘ニ一泊)

October 6

Plan to visit Miyanoshita in Hakone, but on account of rainy weather, return to Yokohama (箱根宮ノ下訪問予定が雨天ノ為横浜に帰ル)

October 7

Stay in Yokohama (Oriental Hotel) (横浜滞在 (オリエンタルホテル))

October 8

  • 06:10 Leave Yokohama (横浜発)
  • 07:07 Arrive in Shinbashi (新橋着)
  • Breakfast at Tsukiji Seiyoken (築地精養軒ニテ朝食)
  • 09:00 Leave from Ueno (上野発)
  • 13:50 Arrive in Nikko (日光着)

October 9

  • Round trip to Chugushi in Chuzenji (中宮祠 (中禅寺)往返)
  • Lunch at Lakeside Hotel (レーキサイドホテル昼食

October 10

  • 08:54 Leave Nikko. Lunch on the train (日光発 汽車中ニテ午餐)
  • 14:30 Arrive at Ueno (上野着)
  • Did not return to Yokohama. Night at the Embassy (横浜には戻らず 公使館泊 )

October 11

  • 11:30 From Shinbashi Alice leaves for Yokohama by Train (新橋発汽車ニテアリス嬢帰浜)

October 12

  • Sightseeing, Shopping (市内遊覧、買物)

October 13

  • Going out in the morning (午前中 外出)
  • 12:30 Lunch at Oriental Hotel Annex (午餐 (オリエンタルホテル別館))
  • 14:00 Depart Hotel (ホテル出立)
  • 15:25 Return to US by SS Siberia (サイベリア号にて帰国の途に)

October 23: Arrival in San Francisco

“At last we started for home on the Siberia with Mr. and Mrs. Harriman and their party. E. H. Harriman was one of the big railroad and financial figures of our time. His daughter, Mary, was my particular friend in the family; but though I saw him when I stayed with her, and of course daily on the trip home, I never felt that I knew him at all. He was a small, brown, taciturn man who never seemed to play. He gave the impression that what he did and made others do was never just “for fun,” was always practical.”